Published: May 30, 2008 03:00 pm            

LIFESTYLE: Which beer is best for summer?

Beer seemingly was made for weather like the area has enjoyed of late.

With barbecue season having unofficially kicked off last weekend, more Western New Yorkers will be found congregated around the backyard grill with a cold one in hand.

But what kind of cold one?

This department decided to help out the would-be beer buyer with this handy guide to the best brews. The six selections are either brewed in this region or have a large local following.

Helping out on this endeavor was Tonawanda News Managing Editor Eric DuVall (because someone was needed who knows the difference between hops and malt). Following is what we had to say.

Ellicottville Brewing Company Blue Berry

ERIC: I remember my first sample of this fruit-infused beer from Ellicottville Brewing. I was leery to say the least. The overwhelming blueberry nose made me even more nervous. How could this be good. Lo and behold, it’s not just good but great. The sweet blueberries (which you smell more than taste) are offset by the bitterness of a crisp hop backbone. It’s a harmonious balance and one that any beer drinker can appreciate — even if fruit beers aren’t your cup of tea.

PAUL: One whiff and you know the label isn’t lying. A blueberry aroma dominates this drink, almost disguising altogether the fact that it contains alcohol. The beer is expertly mixed to allow the sweet and bitter tastes to perfectly contract, with a refreshing berry aftertaste awaiting that final swallow.

Flying Bison Aviator Red

ERIC: At first sniff, Tim Herzog’s most popular blend is earthy and warm. Unfortunately for this local brewer done good, the taste doesn’t match the smell. Aviator Red is flat with no real distinctive flavor to help it achieve lift-off. While nowhere as bad as Genny, it’s also not what one would consider refreshing. If you’re going microbrew for your barbecue, Flying Bison has better to offer.

PAUL: This dark brew smells more like whiskey than beer, with a heavily alcoholic aroma dominating the drink. The flavor hits as heavily as the hue, but the beer is bitter and a bit flat. This drink is meant more for a beer-lover’s evening out than the backyard, as Aviator Red is anything but refreshing.

Genny Light

ERIC: What is there to really say about this old Western New York standby? It’s about as generic as beer gets — and that’s being kind. The light variety is aptly named. Truth in advertising might lend its name to Genny Tasteless, actually. There’s no real hop or malt to offer a distinguishing characteristic. It’s watered-down, carbonated, (mildly) alcoholic beer. When cold, it might quench thirst, but after the first sip, there’s not much reason for a second.

PAUL: Sticking my nose into the cup immediately transported me back to college, when my weekends were dominated by so many parties featuring warm kegs of lifeless, stale beer. That’s what this smells like, and that’s what this tastes like. Genny light is slightly bitter with little beer flavor to offer, and it leaves a dull aftertaste.

Labatt Blue Light

ERIC: I’m not a Labatt man, personally. That puts me in the minority in these parts, I know. This has an all mash smell and only the slightest hint of hops. If the folks who rated movies rated beers, this is PG all the way — bland, generic and suitable for all ages ... Well, maybe not the last part, but you get the idea.

PAUL: My favorite beer from the days when I drank more, Labatt offers a fairly crisp smell. The taste is pretty full for a mass-produced brew, with a smooth aftertaste and a taste that satisfies. This beer is definitely drinkable on a hot day, as it sits well afterward and offers some quenching.

Molson Canadian Light

ERIC: I generally find Molson to be a cut above the usual suspects (though if I’m slumming it, I tend to go Budweiser as a personal preference). Of all the light beers we tried, Molson was the best. A slight complexity and a better balance than most light beers makes this the biggest fish in a small, watery pond.

PAUL: A bit darker than Blue Light, its closest cousin in this contest, Canadian smells less sweet than its counterpart. This beer is somewhat bitter, but it’s also smooth going down and leaves no bad aftertaste.

Southern Tier Phin & Matt’s Ale

ERIC: This is the only beer on our list that has a distinctive hop-infused ale smell and taste. Southern Tier is generally impressive (if you like IPAs, theirs is a fine one) and Phin and Matt’s is no exception. A shade below full-on hopdom, this stops just short of what most average beer drinkers would consider “too bitter.” It walks the line well, and if you’re looking to break into the world of local microbrews, it’s a great place to start.

PAUL: This fairly dark ale had a very minor vinegar aroma about it, with a full taste much more wheat-like than its counterparts. There was a slight hint of bitterness, but that was quickly swallowed by the drink’s fullness. Very good going down, this drink did leave some cottonmonth behind, but it still might have been the best of the bunch.

        

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